Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Haute off the ramp


Interviewing Designer Sidney Sladen at the venue



The buzz started with an announcement on facebook and before long it became the hottest and most debated of topics at social events. There were deliberations, deliberations and more deliberations on whether we (as a city), were actually ready for a fashion event of this scale, but all doubts were set to rest when day after day people at their fashionable best, made it all the way to Le Royal Meridien from 16th - 20th December to witness the first international fashion week of the city. Explained an elated Shakti Girish, Chief Editor, Galatta cinema, who is already in the middle of model castings for season 2, “While I might have been the pivotal force behind the event, the person who actually went ahead and made things happen despite over 500 people telling him it would never work out was Gaurav Sharma and he definitely deserves a lot more credit than what he’s already got.” “There was a lot of enthusiasm and excitement and it was the positive response from the city that has made us decide to make CIFW a biannual Affair” added Gaurav Sharma of Storm Fashion company.
Loungy, resort style silhouettes, abstract prints and a LOT of Kollywood characterized this five day event which as Shakti Girish puts it, was more about bringing to the notice of manufacturers, retailers and suppliers world over that Chennai is fashion ready to both supply and buy than to actually generate buyers. “In the last five years retail in Chennai has really boomed. Other cities like Delhi and Mumbai already have a huge fashion line up and which is exactly why we (the team) felt that it makes much more sense to start something in a city like this where there is a lot of untapped potential”, she added.
Noticeably, the most interesting designs came from the newbies and the international designers who came with no preconceived notions about the city.
Day 1
With relaxed silhouettes and abstract prints Pria Kataria Puri’s 80’s inspired opening collection was wearable but definitely lacking in imagination. The choreography and Koena Mitra hardly did anything to the ‘not so exciting’ colour palette but Delhi based Chirag Joshi’s three lines more than made up for the luke warm opening. The very chic Cotton Couture, prismatic Flora and Fauna and Kamasutra (very interesting, indianised interpretations of the LBD) are perfect for Chennai. Nothing OTT, but very sleek and stylish. Ishita Singh did justice to fusion wear (a much abused term nowadays). Her floor length skirts with suspenders, embellished waist coats and showstopper Genelia were contagiously vibrant. Jason and Anshu’s line was vibrant with fruity hues. Sri Lankan designer Yolanda Aluwihare with jungle beats and brilliant animal prints gave us the action that we were all looking for and Chennai’s own Sidney Sladen with a power packed finale and showstoppers Neil Nitin Mukesh and Namita ensured that the gliterrati of Chennai was in full attendance. “Chennai has always been a fashion destination, but things were never loud here, unlike other cities like Delhi and Bombay, till very recently,” said the designer as he talked about how delighted he was to be a part of the event and the very special relationship that he shared with the city.

Day 2
Bangalore based designer Yogitha Ramamurthy opened with a line of hand-woven saris with elaborate pallavs in silk and silk blends, followed by a fun and free spirited collection by Richa Kapoor of Chennai. A very bohemian line with retro touches. Hooded tops, sheath dresses, duster coats in aubergines, blacks and cinnamons - Sanchita Ajjampur’s collection that gave the ancient craft of Sashiko quilting a modern twist was breathtaking. After Yolanda, Fahad Sheriff gave us added reason to follow the fashion scene in Srilanka more seriously as his label Middle finger’s uber cool clothes with noticeably great finish did thoroughly inspire us to get buff (they do not retail x sizes). Anurag Goenka’s casuals for men were very contemporary. Rehane’s ‘Looks like love’ was romantic and whimsical, think Midsummer Night’s dream, with delicate lacer cutwork detail. Looks like the designer has come a long way from her ‘Space Age Sundari’ days. Among others who were spotted on Day 2 choreographer Sunil Menon shared with us “I am definitely excited about the city witnessing its first international fashion week but would have loved to have seen a more Chennai oriented team behind the event”. His thoughts were echoed by jewellery designer and Stylist Ratika Kaul Haksar who was also present in a stunning blue number.

Day 3
Micro shorts, ruffled blouses and skinny pants in white, white and more white. A monochrome colour palette, but Revathy, Radhika and Rays’collection was anything but monotonous. Hopefully we will get to see a lot more of this very young designer trio and their very chic clothes. With dresses, in neutrals, inspired by the pleats of the sari, Satkrit’s ‘Kanchipuram’ paid perfect tribute to the nine yard drape while Archana Kochar’s sapphire inspired line was tediously blue. Throughout, the signature international hour did not disappoint and on Day 3 the fashionista in Rachel G of Singapore totally came through in her line that was soft and feminine yet very very powerful. There was something almost poetic about the jasmine decked models who walked the ramp for Vikram Phadnis’s finale. Bringing back ancient Mughal influences with contemporary twists the intricately detailed lehngas, sherwanis and achkans were sheer opulence.

Day 4
Pooja Rajvanshi’s shirt style kameez is bound to find a way into most Chennai wardrobes. Inspired by the colours of the pearl this designer from Rajasthan presented a collection of evening gowns, tunics and skirts. Nazia Syeds ‘Art Nouveau’ inspired collection in chiffon and satin silk was a good mix of the old and the new. Nishka Lulla’s line was everything that was expected- youthful, kitschy and fun and Tamanna was the perfect muse. The tunics and paneled dresses with mirror and threadwork embellishments perfectly reflected the delightfully adventurous design sensibilities of the very young designer. Something that CIFW could definitely have done without is the Reebok Easy tone show and we are still wondering why we did not get to see more of Louie Mariette’s head pieces which everybody seemed to be looking forward to after having caught glimpses of the man, his muse and one or two of the totally attention demanding head pieces at the Kingfisher Lounge. Sanjana Jon’s show was energetic but a tad film oriented.

Day 5
Rahul and Gunjan’s line of flowy dresses inspired by USA pears was prismatic. Satya Paul was predictable. Jasbir Jamani’s collection was high on glam and the jazz performance(which we heard was show director Anupama Varma’s idea) added interest to the showing of intricately printed corsets and flowy netted gowns. It was ‘art meets fashion’ at its best with Lida Oreilly’s collection. Clothes on the ramp do not always have to be wearable as long as they succeed in interpreting the creative abilities of the designer and on that regard we know exactly what to expect of this young from Mauritius. Breaking one of the oldest fashion rules (it’s now official. You can wear gold and silver together) Neeta lulla’s finale collection of ghagras, saris, jackets and lungis in beige, dull gold and silver was spellbinding.

What was truly endearing was how genuinely excited most of the designers were about being a part of the city’s first fashion week and how the city responded, but what was missing was the high energy drama that is expected of a fashion event of this scale which we are told is what the next season will be all about. While initially there were a few organizational issues it was wonderful to see how things quickly picked up making it a fabulous first attempt by Storm fashion company and Galatta Cinema in association with Mediamix. Chennai Fashion week - definitely a very good beginning, but we are sure the best is yet to come. Looking forward to season 2.


Unforgettable Fashion moments
When …
• Day 1 ended with Sidney’s showstopper Neil Nitin Mukesh
• We caught our first glimpse of Supermodel Sofia Hayat with Louis Mariette’s bespoke headgear
• A vivacious Genelia wowed the crowds in a red gown by Ishita Singh
• Rehane struck her rockstar pose




Trend report
Kaftans, kaftans and more kaftans
Relaxed, resort style silhouettes
Geometrical patterns, abstract prints
Sunny yellows, peppy pinks and minty greens

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